Merrie-Beth Board, Mountain Guide, ACMG/IFMGA
It is my assertion that Merrie-Beth Board has failed to meet the standard of the 1st Code of Conduct, 'to hold paramount the safety of their clients and, in so doing, shall manage reasonably foreseeable risks to the fullest extent possible commensurate with their training and experience'.
The following are examples of this breach of duty:
• Guides told the clients to pack an avalanche probe and shovel and to wear a transceiver for the climb (clients were never asked to demonstrate competency with this equipment, there was no training, demonstration or practice using avalanche transceivers, probing or digging, clients were not told how to protect themselves from an avalanche, or what best practices are if you are caught in an avalanche)
• Guides did not introduce, explain or discuss the ATES scale to the clients
• Guide did not explain that the nature of the terrain the ice climb Massey's (and the climbs the other clients climbed that day) was identified as a Class Ill - a black route - on the ATES scale
• Merrie-Beth Board stated on two occasions, "I know we are wearing avalanche transceivers and carrying avalanche equipment, but if we had any concerns about avalanches, we wouldn't be here today."
•Each person dug a small platform at the base of the climb, on which put on gear. rather than getting ready in the trees that would have provided protection for the group from overhead hazards.
• Approaching the fourth and final pitch, clientswere given an opportunity to lead. The guides set up a 'sport-lead' for the leaders -where 8-9 ice screws were placed on a short pitch. The 'leader' client led the pitch and the second client cleaned the route. This fourth pitch took up a significant amount of time. Massey's was not on Sarah Hueniken's possible leading route list.
• At the top of the route, around 1pm, Merrie-Beth Board offers an opportunity to 'do laps' on the first pitch. All but one guest is interested in this and the offer is rescinded.
• There is a walk-off for this route through the trees, however, the guides choose to rappel the descent of this ice climb.
• Guests are instructed on building V-threads at the base of the waterfall at 2:27pm.
• All the bags, shovels and probes were blown away and buried in the avalanche. The rescuers only have an ice ax, crampons, helmets and sticks to dig out Sonja.
• Merrie-Beth Board approached me as I am buried and requests my gloves as one of the guides was digging out Sonja with bare hands. I give my gloves to Merrie-Beth Board. I am now digging myself out with bare hands.
• I was been buried to just over my head. My feet are buried over a meter deep.. I was left to dig myself out. After 50 minutes I was finally freed
• Another client arrives on site. She was in Sarah Hueniken's climbing group. Sarah Hueniken had told this client at the car to 'empty your pack of everything but your avalanche gear and follow me.' Sarah Hueniken left before the client. When the client arrived at the avalanche site, she was asked for her shovel. The client forgot her shovel or probe in the 'excitement' .
Benjamin Paradis, Apprentice Alpine Guide ACMG
It is my assertion that Benjamin Paradis has failed to meet the standard of the 1st Code of Conduct, 'to hold paramount the safety of their clients and, in so doing, shall manage reasonably foreseeable risks to the fullest extent possible commensurate with their training and experience'.
The following are examples of this breach of duty:
• Three critical errors are made on rappel. The two climbing parties rappel the route, single file, in two rappels. Benjamin Paradis goes first. He sets up an anchor of two screws and builds a V-thread for the second rappel. All six climbers arrive at the two-screw anchor. Benjamin Paradis sets up his rappel off the V-thread. A client points out that the V thread isn't backed up. Benjamin Paradis backs up the V-thread through the anchor material. As Benjamin Paradis sets up his belay device, he unclips from the main anchor and I remind him to lock his rappel device carabiner as it was open, before he begins his descent.
• Guides told the clients to pack an avalanche probe and shovel and to wear a transceiver for the climb (clients were never asked to demonstrate competency with this equipment, there was no training, demonstration or practice using avalanche transceivers, probing or digging, clients were not told how to protect themselves from an avalanche, or what best practices are if you are caught in an avalanche)
• Guide did not introduce, explain or discuss the ATES scale to the clients
• Guide did not explain that the nature of the terrain the ice climb Massey's (and the climbs the other clients climbed that day) was identified as a Class Ill - a black route - on the ATES scale
